We rent both ways, and we'll tell you honestly which one suits your trip.
Take a driver when
You're leaving the valley, you're travelling in monsoon, you have fewer than a few days, or you're not used to driving on the left with buses that don't stop. A good driver is also a fixer: he knows the fuel station that's open at Mugling at ten at night.
Self-drive works when
You're staying in Kathmandu or Pokhara, you have an international permit, and you're on a scooter or small car. Insurance requires it, and traffic police will ask.